Posted by: westcoastice | January 1, 2013

January 1, 2013 (Thanks Drew and Bruce)

Happy New Year!!

Highway 99 South – Whistler/Pemberton

As per Drew and Jesse’s observations (below), a drive up and down the corridor to Duffey Lake was completely uninspiring.  Without a big outbreak of arctic air, I’d say its dead in the water.

The only possible exception I (Bruce) can think of would be The Plum, but I’m just guessing in a rather optimistic way. There’s enough ice at Suicide Bluffs for very hard leading or top roping but thats about it.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Jesse Mason and I (Drew Brayshaw) checked out conditions on the Duffey on Saturday (Dec 29). Not really much climbable and we ended up with 3 other parties at the Rambles. Overall conditions are very snowy with over a foot of powder on the ground at the Rambles parking lot.
Specifically, there was a truck parked and party climbing Synchronicity, and it looked as per the conditions report from the 28th – thin at the bottom and better higher up.
Carl’s Berg looked tough and nasty in current conditions – lots of icicles and cauliflowers and more than a few holes.
A couple of freestanding pillars that can be seen from the road – Mother, Red Wall Wanderers, Loose Lady and The Strand – were all touching down, but also very slender, ranging from sapling to telephone pole diameter by appearance.
Deep Throat had a couple of visible holes in two of the pitches.
Surprisingly Last Call had a lot of thin ice on the lower wall – that rarely ices. This could be a good year if given a couple weeks more to form up.

The Rambles were in early season conditions with lots of wet ice. Left, Centre and Right all got climbed. Most variations are in at Upper Centre.
Robin Hood in the forest to the left is thin verglas, snow and rock low down, but improves to fat ice up higher.
The Column is reportedly in, but chandeliered on the right side.
The P-S Dihedral is iced to about 3/4 height.
From the road, Shreddie looked pretty anemic. The dagger is only about 1/4 of the way to touchdown.
A couple of the things in Wader Land (the Groke and El Nino) looked to be in from the road.

We drove up and down via Whistler, and nothing at Soo Bluffs or near Pemberton looked to be in – very snowy with only a few hints of thin ice. Stuff up at Xit’olacw and D’arcy might be more promising?

Pic attached is of the Lenin variation at Upper Rambles Centre and is of me (Drew), shot by Jesse.

Lenin Rambles

Drew on the Lenin variation, Upper Rambles Centre


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