Posted by: westcoastice | December 30, 2012

December 30, 2012 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Wes, Lee and Francis)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

On Thu (Dec 27), Jason Cullum and I (Wes Dyck) climbed the first 2 pitches of Icy B.C. and toproped Deeping Wall. Temps were -12 C in the middle of the day. The third pitch of Icy B.C. was no longer spewing water and might have been climbable.

Adrian, Lee and Francis also climbed at Marble Canyon on Saturday, Dec. 29. Temps were up to just below freezing. Icy B.C. pitch 1 was wet and dripping on the right, in early season conditions. The left alternative was a dry, semi-mixed variation that was, despite appearances, easier to climb than the main, right curtain. The left would make an entertaining lead, with thought provoking protection. Icy B.C. pitch 2 was in, a little cauliflowered at the base. Icy B.C. pitch 3 appeared filled in, but steep.

Deeping Wall touches down at two points, the left giving a WI 4+ dry, cauliflowered variation. The right/center column-start gives a drippy WI 5 variation. The top half of the pitch eases off and is wet on the right, dry on the left. Other climbs to the left of the Deeping Wall were not in.

Note: Chris and fellow Kamloops climber (who reinforced toprope anchors this summer due to the fire damage) say that the huge fir used as an anchor for the third pitch has had its roots burnt away. Beware! See previous post RE: Anchors.

Icy BC Pitch 1

Lee on Icy BC Pitch 1

Icy BC Pitch 2

Icy BC Pitch 2

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Icy BC Pitch 3

Icy BC Pitch 3

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Deeping Wall touches down at two points, the left giving a WI 4+ dry, cauliflowered variation. The right/center column-start gives a drippy WI 5 variation. The top half of the pitch eases off and is wet on the right, dry on the left. Other climbs to the left of the Deeping Wall were not in.

Deeping Wall

Franics on the center column of Deeping Wall. Icy BC in the background.

Deeping Wall

High on the Deeping Wall

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We tried for Oregon Jack the first day, but spun out on the unsanded road. So we got some $30 chains from Lordco in Cache Creek and drove up the next day (Fri, Dec 28). Temps were -8C and we climbed ¾ of the pitch until arriving at the sunrotted refrozen mushrooms at the top. Ice was beautiful up to that point!  A more experience climber could have climbed it to the top.

Oregon Jack

Oregon Jack

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Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon & Highway 12 – Lytton

On the drive back, we (Wes and Jason) noticed that Jackass Falls was running water in a 2m wide strip down the center. We also drove up to Botanie Falls which appeared in, but we did not have time to climb it.


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