Posted by: westcoastice | February 21, 2012

February 21, 2012 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Bruce and Allen)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Icy BC: Heard its still a go, but becoming “spring conditions”

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

The Rambles: Melty, but still there.
Carl’s Berg: Still in.

Highway 1 – Three Valley Gap – Okanagan-Revelstoke

Gap Falls WI5
Right over the lake. Its in and looks in good condition!  Heard the word from some friends that it is in great shape! One of the best in the area.
Also can be bad in high avy hazard and it can suffer from strong solar (south facing).

Turkey Chute WI4 100m
I (Allen Rollin) climbed Turkey Chute with Rick Cox last Thursday (16th of February) and we found great conditions and awesome climbing. This climb has huge avy hazard though and should be considered only with no recent snow, good temps and low hazard.

The first three belays (if you can find them) are bolted and in good shape. Bolted station up past the WI2 ice on the yellow band of rock on the left for the first belay. 40m to the next bolted belay on your left under an overhang (just before the steep right trending ice). Third bolted belay 20m beyond on the rock wall on your left before the last pitch (very nice). Last pitch, climb up the gully to a tree rappel off to your right (55m). Some bolted belays have suffered from avalanche hammering (should say something about the risk) ,but the last belay/rap can be found on a tree to climbers right – up and beyond the real end of the climbing on pitch three. Definitely a classic of the area that should not be missed in good conditions!

Approach: Park at the hotel, walk back down the road, put on your crampons and climb.
Gear: Stubbies, maybe a couple of cams, knifeblades or nuts (depending on conditions), but the majority of the climb will take good screws.

First two pitches of Turkey Chute

First two pitches of Turkey Chute

Full climb in the evening light

Full climb in the evening light

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Eagle Bluffs WI3-5
Just past 3 Valley Gap, great climbing, short approach and North facing. Lots of options here and in really good condition! Bring gaiters for the river crossing and snow shoes!


Categories

%d bloggers like this: