Posted by: westcoastice | February 5, 2012

February 5, 2012 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks BJ)

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Feb 4Nite N’ Gale: First pitch in marginal shape (looks better in picture than up close). Climbing far to the climber’s left provided rock moves and was character building. The first pitch was followed by approximately 200m of neve/snice. The second and third pitches of actual ice were in AMAZING shape. The fattest and overall best ice I’ve climbed in the Lillooet area – more like ice typically found in the Rockies.
Approach notes: Crossed creek with regular rubber boots without incident. Difficult to spot climb in early morning fog (have had same experience with this climb on multiple occasions). Nite N’ Gale currently has large avy debris well down the drainage and far below current snow level.

Crossing creek on Nite N' Gale approach

Crossing creek on Nite N' Gale approach

Nite N' Gale from the road

Nite N' Gale from the road

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Nite N' Gale Pitch 1

Nite N' Gale Pitch 1

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Approaching the main falls of Nite N' Gale

Approaching the main falls of Nite N' Gale

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Main falls of Nite N' Gale (Pitch 2)

Main falls of Nite N' Gale (Pitch 2)

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Shriek of Sheep: Upper section looked in and fat, although either missing the first pitch or that’s the 5.8R discussed in the book.
Salmon Stakes: Exists, but thin and discontinuous in the middle.
Nothing else up Bridge River Road appeared ‘In’.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Feb 3Icy BC: Pitches 1 and 2 are IN with good ice. Pitch 3 looked a little spooky up close – heavy water flow and detached ice.
Deeping Wall is still in great shape. Wider than two weeks ago.

Icy BC Pitch 1

Icy BC Pitch 1

Leading Icy BC Pitch 2

Leading Pitch 2 of Icy BC

Spooky ice on Icy BC Pitch 3

Spooky ice on Icy BC Pitch 3

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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Synchronicity: NOT in – large discontinuous sections.
Carl’ Berg: It always looks thin to me, but it did have continuous ice from top to bottom.
Noted that the road heading up towards the Phair climbs appeared to have very little snow.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

Feb 5 – We followed the boot pack to The Plum. Climbed part way up to first pitch over rotten and hollow ice with a considerable amount of water running beneath. See picture. Viewed from the road with binoculars, the first visible pitch of the other climb to the left appeared in worse shape.

Bullwinkle

Pemberton ice - The Plum


Responses

  1. The pictsure labelled Rockie is the first pitch of the Plum

  2. Thanks – re-labelled the picture and edited the post.
    Adrian


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