Posted by: westcoastice | January 26, 2012

January 26, 2012 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Nick, Ray, Peter and DLC)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

On Wednesday (Jan 25) Peter and co. went to Marble Canyon and climbed all three pitches of Icy BC. A tonne more ice here then 2 weeks ago.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Peter and co.) got out Tuesday (Jan 24) on the Duffey and put the garbage bags on to go climb Deep Throat WI4+ (Ed. Note: requires calf-deep creek crossing on approach; hence the bags). First two pitches were in great shape, but the third has a giant hole – due to a tree that has fallen down the gully and changed the water flow.

(Ray and co.) were on the Rambles just north of Duffey lakes on Saturday Jan 21. Ice is formed thinner than normal, and is climbed more at a WI3 level right now, with the ‘crux’ being ½ way up the main pillar. The middle line is in and the bottom tier gives you a few line options for the first 5m or so. Verglass forming on the far left, and would be a sporty mixed climb far right. You had to pick your line in order to get screw placements. 16CM screws were used on this climb. Tools hit rock under the ice once or twice.

Upper tier of the first pitch is WI3 and thin but a few very small mushrooms formed making it good for foot placement, but is sporty.

The climbers-left tree that is normally used as a belay/rap station needs new slings. I avoided that tree and created a new belay/rap station with brand new webbing on the tree on climbers-right. Next group please pull the old loops off the left tree – there’s a lot there since I forgot my knife at the car.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

(DLC and company) went to The Plum yesterday (Jan 25). It’s in great shape, but prepare to trudge through thigh deep snow between tiers. First pitch was a little slurpee-like, but second was perfect. The third tier was covered in 6 inches of snow. Ran out of time for the top tier.

The Plum on approach

The Plum's top step

Leading the Plum

Leading the Plum

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Paul Backhouse, Eric Carter and I (Nick Elson) climbed White Blotter today (Jan 24). It’s a bit of a wallow up to the base although there’s still not quite enough snow to smooth out the talus. The first pitch lived up to its reputation as a sandbag; the climbing was steep and insubstantial, and it was impossible to avoid being showered by icy water for the duration of the pitch (a fine lead by Paul). The second pitch was easier. We climbed the right-hand edge where the ice was a bit thin but at least we weren’t getting soaked. It’s a fantastic route, although it would certainly benefit from some prolonged cold weather.

Photos below. The first one (freestanding pillar) is pitch 1, and the second is pitch 2.

Leading White Blotter

Amazing shot! Paul leading White Blotter

White Blotter pitch 2

Leading White Blotter's second pitch


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