Posted by: westcoastice | January 17, 2012

January 17, 2011 (Thanks Lee and BJ)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Cold (-24 Celsius/-11 Fahrenheit)
Deeping wall: Forming well. When we arrived there was a large group of Americans TR’ing it. Saw up to three ropes on it at a time, plus one more rope climbing the smear way right.
IcyBC: On the US holiday monday, Patrick and Lee climbed at Marble Canyon. Large hole/cave in the middle down low on Pitch 1, but many parties climbed right of it just fine. We climbed the first two pitches. The first pitch had less ice than previous years, but went easier than I have experienced it before… maybe WI4+. Climbed the second pitch which had a huge cone around a massive hole with water spraying everywhere; weird climbing. Tried the 3rd pitch, but backed-off due to really weird ice that looked too tricky to protect; lots of mushrooms and weird spray ice that made pro tricky. Better climbers than us could certainly get up it. We then TR’d the Deeping Wall which is in great condition running it’s typical WI5. Overall, conditions were good and we had a great day out. With the cold snap, lots of Lillooet ice should be in good condition.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road:

Rambles Right: IN but thin.  Saw several people get their first ever leads on it though.
Rambles Center (only climbed/saw the first pitch): IN, but thinner than I’ve ever seen it.
Carl’s Berg: Continuous Ice, looks pretty thin though… but then, I always think that about Carl’s Berg.
Synchronicity: Still missing upper pitch

Highway 1 – Lytton

Didn’t have the book, and I only observed as I was driving from Cache Creek to Hope on Jan 16. Only climb I recognized off the top of my head was Jackass.
Jackass: Lots and lots of ice, but also lots and lots of water.
In general though, there were lots of roadside smears – more than I’ve seen in years past.  The creeks off the side of the road all looked frozen pretty hard.  Clear, dry, and cold (-8C). Very little snow even up high. Impressive alpine line forming across the Fraser River just north of Lytton (not all the way continuous).


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