Posted by: westcoastice | December 15, 2011

December 15, 2011 Part 2 (Thanks Corey)

Highway 99 South – Whistler

Psycho Pillar and Take Me to the River are forming up nicely. They look much fatter then they have been in five years.
Take Me to the River is not quite formed to the top, but the large curtain that spills over the lip is five feet away from being supported. The ice is wet, and there was water running under the ice against the rock, during the day yesterday. There is a severe risk of large daggers becoming detached and sweeping both routes. In the next cold snap, I would expect these routes to be climbable. We refrained from touching them due to the objective hazard and out of courtesy. There is a pile of ice on the ground from previous parties smashing away on top rope.

Please just let them be until fully formed or they will remain only manky top rope routes all season long.


  1. so have they fallen down yet with all of the + temps????

    with coastal ice in the sea to sky I feel that it is a different story then routes up on the duffey and such. This stuff comes in and then falls down again repeatedly as the south coast goes through its pineapple expresses.

    thoughts from others on this?

    its like saying to not TR on routes in Squamish when they come in as if we are to leave them alone they will only keep growing. NOT TRUE.

    I would love to hear feedback from some of the vets that have watched these climbs for years.

  2. Haven’t heard anything, but it wouldn’t surprise me if they deteriorated a bit. The reports I have had over the years have Whistler ice forming and falling multiple times a season. Except those rare longer, cold winters.

    • I am still trying to figure out how a climb that is the fattest its been in 5 years still hasnt formed…now thats tough coastal conditions!

  3. Usually these climbs are anorexic smears of ice only inches thick and poorly adhered, as visible in the early season pictures from previous posts.The curtains were 80% formed and the ice is thick enough to take a screw. They generally fall down when the curtains are unsupported and it warms up. Last week they (curtains and columns) were so close to touching you could reach up and get a tool in from the base. My expereince (8yrs) in Pemberton and climbing those routes twice almost every year. (only once on lead), is that they remain unless we experience heavy rain. I can only imagine that once they are fat, that they will stay that way all season. I have not driven past them in daylight this week but when I do I will snap a pic. Pemberton is a far cry from Squamish in terms of ambient temperature. We are drier and colder. Even duringt the temperature spike last Wednesday the canyon remained around zero while the village was a balmy +2 despite negligeable elevation differences.


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