Posted by: westcoastice | March 14, 2011

March 14, 2011 (Thanks Adam and Shawn)

Kelowna
(Adam) was out at Christy Falls on Saturday and The Phenom is still looking great and fatter than it was a month ago when I lead it. It got it’s second accent as well by Matt Maddaloni from Squamish. He said it was the best single pitch of ice he has ever climbed and confirmed the grade at WI6. The wi4 is also still in and has 3-4 differnt lines up it now. I am getting close on the mixed route; just got one more move to figure out now, then link it. A 70 meter rope will reach the ground on the mixed route just for people’s info.

The Phenom with mixed route behind

The Phenom with mixed route behind

The Phenom (left), new mixed route (right)

The Phenom (left), new mixed route (right)

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Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
We managed the last couple of days ice climbing this weekend. On Saturday myself (Shawn), Ken and Megan climbed Shriek of Sheep. The climb was wet, but still in good shape; the low angle gulley at the top of the route was thin (1-3 inches) of detached ice, covered in 6 inches of snow. The catch basin at the bottom of the climb had about 2 feet of consolidated snow over ice. In this warm weather, I would be very concerned with wet snow avalanches running down the approach gulley.

On Sunday, Ken and I climbed the second pitch of Icy BC. The centre line was relatively dry, but the pillar is only about 12 inches thick. It was one swing hero ice. We were planning to do the third pitch but turned around due to ice conditions, it was +8C and the top pitch looked more snice than ice. The tools are now hung up for the season.

Shriek of Sheep Pitch 1

Shriek of Sheep Pitch 1

Starting Pitch 2 on Shriek

Starting Pitch 2 on Shriek

 

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Approaching the belay P1

Approaching the belay Pitch 1

The crux on Pitch 2

The crux on Pitch 2

 


Responses

  1. Thanks again Kimberly for the awsome pictures 🙂 the mixed route is awsome and should be in for another 3-4 weeks and pillar should be good for least another week so get on out there


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