Posted by: westcoastice | March 9, 2011

March 9, 2011 (Thanks S., Justin, Jessica and Chris)

Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon
We (Chris Volkart and company) spent the past two days (Mar 4-5) doing day trips out of Kamloops. Sunday March 5th we went to Goldpan Provincial Park. We started by climbing the first two flows of Happy Boy and decided to bail due to wet conditions and because we were only carrying gear for soloing. Looks like its well formed, but bring your umbrella as it is melting fast.

Happy Boy

Happy Boy

 

Sn'ice on Energizer

Sn'ice on Energizer

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Climbing Energizer

Climbing Energizer

(Lack of) last pitch of Energizer

(Lack of) last pitch of Energizer

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We then began climbing Energizer. Conditions started off variable and turned into full on “sn’ice” by the end of the day. Some of the steeper sections have crumbled and we climbed until there was no way to climb on ice or on the crumbly rock (after scrambling around the first missing section on some rock that left us wishing we hadn’t). Overall route is getting too dangerous to climb for the year.

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
Chad Kellogg, Matt Fioretti and Justin Robinson climbed Honeyman Falls on Sunday evening. Surprisingly good ice down low, sn’ice with onion skin above. We climbed the whole thing in fun, but funky conditions.

Gavin and I climbed Salmon Stakes yesterday, Mar 8. The approach gulley was loose and wet; rock fall was quite steady, but nothing bigger than baseball size and relatively easy to avoid (No rock fall was encountered on the actual route itself). A steady pace got us to the bottom of the route in 45 minutes. The route was in decent shape with soft plastic ice thick enough to take 19cm screws in most areas. Any flat areas on the ice had a cover of snow with a thick (one inch) melt freeze crust on top that broke away in large pieces. Just try to avoid getting both tools and crampons onto these areas at the same time to avoid a toboggan ride. The river crossing was pretty straight forward – on our way out the river had risen a couple of inches (warm day), but we still managed to stay dry using the garbage bag technique. Great, easy route in some nice terrain.

Salmon Stakes river crossing

Salmon Stakes river crossing

Salmon Stakes

Salmon Stakes

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Salmon Stakes

Salmon Stakes

Rock scramble on Salmon Stakes

Rock scramble on Salmon Stakes

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Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
We (Chris V and co.) went to Oregon Jack on March 6th. Ice was still well formed as it seems to stay cold there even when its warm just out of the canyon. Ice was variable… brittle in places, plastic in others and hooked out elsewhere. Having watched the temps over the past few weeks, it seems as though it might be good for a while yet! Enjoy!

Oregon Jack

Oregon Jack

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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Thanks from Ken Perkins: A special thanks to Carl Reily and Mathew Burke of Vancouver for rescuing my tools off of Synchronicity last week. It’s nice to see that the climbing community is so connected and I (Ken) really appreciate the work you (Adrian) do to keep this site open for the climbing world to keep in touch with climbing conditions and assorted mishaps such as mine.

Chad Kellogg, Matt Fioretti and Justin Robinson had a great trip to Lillooet on 3/6-3/8. Climbed Synchronicity on Monday. What an amazing route. The WI2 scramble is in good shape. WI3 60m pitch is hollow, but fine, with lots of water underneath. The short pitch above the first snowfield is thick and fun, albeit wet. The first WI4 tier was soft and took a lot of radiation while we were on it. We were able to dig out a decent anchor 2/3 of the way up (a little scary). The finish to the tree bench was interesting, hollow and soft. The final tier was good at the bottom, sn’ice in the middle and excellent at the top as the shade had been on it for 20-30 minutes by the time we got there. Rap stations are in good shape. No v-threads necessary. 0600 departure, 1940 return. There is an ice bridge 20-30m downriver of the bottom of the gully and we were able to walk right across and up the talus slope to the road on the return. That makes the route VERY fast to approach right now.

Synchronicity from the road

Synchronicity from the road

Mid-height on Synchronicity

Mid-height on Synchronicity

Final pitch Synchronicity

Final pitch Synchronicity

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Geoff and I (Jessica) spent 4 days on the Duffey Lake Road. On Saturday March 5, we climbed Carl’s Berg, tending to the left and weaving back to the right. Geoff led the route, finding an assortment of chandeliers, cauliflowers, mushrooms. Good screw placements for the most part. Technical climbing. Solid WI5 maybe WI5+.  We spent a few hours TR’ing different lines. March 7 (after Rambles on March 6) we went back to Carl’s Berg; it was pouring water.  Geoff led far left (dry) up to midway and we TR’d.

Carl's Berg

Carl's Berg

 

Geoff leading Carl's Berg

Geoff leading Carl's Berg

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Chandeliers & mushrooms on Carl's

Chandeliers & mushrooms on Carl's (nice pic!)

Geoff high on Carl's Berg

Geoff high on Carl's Berg

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March 6, we went to Rambles Right. Found the column to be in good shape (Jessica led). P-S Dihedral was dripping; save it for a freezing day. Third day, we climbed the Rambles Left, up to third tier. Curtain was WI 4+, Geoff led.

Jessica leading Rambles Right

Jessica leading Rambles Right

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Tuesday brought Chris, Matt and Justin up Rambles Center with the Central Curtain finish. Lower and middle tiers are fat, but wet. Upper tier is also fat, but wet. The Left ColumnCentral Curtain and Right Route are all in. The routes in the trees to the left looked pretty good too. We climbed the Central Curtain with some chandeliering and running water. WI4+ in the conditions we found it.

Rambles Left

Central Curtain

Rambles, Curtain

Rambles Left


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