Posted by: westcoastice | March 7, 2011

March 7, 2011 (Thanks Jeremy, Alistair, Henrik and Steve)

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
Nick Elson, Jesse Mason, and I (Henrik Hinkkala) climbed in Lillooet last weekend, Mar 4-6. We went up Old Dogs, New Picks. Sunday we went to Bridge River and climbed Shriek of Sheep, climb was in variable condition with every imaginable variety of ice, but was other wise climbable and protect able. Night n’ Gale looked in great shape as well.  Photos below of Shriek of Sheep:

Shriek of Sheep

Shriek of Sheep

Shriek of Sheep

Shriek of Sheep

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Shriek of Sheep

Shriek of Sheep

Shriek of Sheep

Shriek of Sheep

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Highway 99 South – Pemberton/D’Arcy

We (Steve Gillanders and Chris Jensen) climbed the first 2 pitches of The Plum on March 5 with slushy conditions on the first pitch, but excellent ice on pitch 2. It warmed up considerably, so we didn’t go for the upper pitches.
Sophie and Alistair also tried The Plum on the same day.  The ice was in decent shape, but we were denied the upper pitches by time-consuming waist deep postholing.  The first pitch had some funky ice layered with snow and more ice but good protection was available.  The second tier left side was great ice, didn’t get to the third and fourth tiers.  Here’s a pic each of the first and second tiers.
The Plum

The Plum

The Plum

The Plum

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We (Steve and Chris again) had intended to climb Whisper Falls on March 6, but it looked downright scary with what appeared to be some detached ice near the top and thin conditions in the middle. We ended up climbing Roadside Attraction, which was fat and in decent shape, and doing laps on the steeper middle and left section.
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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Rob Burns and I (Jeremy Thom) were out at Carl’s Berg on Friday, March 4. Seems to be in similar condition to when Marc-Andre climbed it a few weeks back, assuming that by “featured” he meant overhanging brittle mushrooms and cauliflower, interspersed with chandelier and hollow ice. I made it up the lower angle curtain to the base of the pillar proper. I tried left, centre and right lines. Excellent screws were readily available in the recesses below the overhangs. I chopped about a chord of cauliflower before deciding that the climb required a surgeon’s touch, whereas I am a lumberjack. Not wanting to post a report about how I proved my screw placements were solid, I retreated. Surgeons should get on it though – it looks super fun and technical, and seemed like it should take good screws well higher than I got, at least.

Nick Elson, Jesse Mason, and I (Henrik Hinkkala) tried Syncrotron/Syncronicity on Sat, but turned back after getting bombarded by falling ice, very warm +10 degrees in the sun and the ice turned into slurpee.


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