Posted by: westcoastice | February 26, 2011

February 27, 2011 (Thanks Drew and Peter)

Highways 1 – Hope
Saturday around Hope, conditions were pretty thin and snowy. 
Janice Ales
was in.
Medusa was in.
Mousetrap was kinda in, but many of the lower-angle pitches were buried under snow.
Most other stuff wasn’t in.
Bridal Veil still had big holes.
Easy Intro was just millimeters thick.

Highway 5 – Coquihalla
I (Drew) drove up Hwy 5 for a look-see, Jarvis Bluffs routes were not in just quite yet.
The Honeymoon Is Over was there but with avvy hazard from above.
The Drool in the Lotus was in but snowy.

Highway 1 – Fraser Valley
Drove up Hwy 1.
Sailor Bar Gully was in, Chuck Norris maybe could have been done, the rest of the Superheroes routes weren’t in yet.
Drove up to Hells Gate, Cerberus looked good, the rest not formed up fully yet.
Went as far as Jackass; first pitch could have been done, pitch 2 was mostly holes. Pitch 3 would have gone if you could get to it.

NEW ROUTE
Spuzzum Nation WI3 60m FA Drew Brayshaw, Jacqueline Bonn Feb 26 2011
We then drove back down to Spuzzum area, no snow. Decided to revisit the Welcome To Spuzzum area. It was in, conditions similar to the 1st ascents in Dec 09. Climbed the main left side flow, 55m WI3 to 5m of turf to a very loose overhanging rock exit to the belay tree, 5.7ish – a boulder fell out while I was stemming off it, more solid now hopefully. If this needs a name to distinguish it from Welcome to Spuzzum and Come Again Soon we will call it Spuzzum Nation

Welcome to Spuzzum Area TOPO:
Red = Spuzzum Nation
Orange = Come Again Soon WI3+ 75m
Yellow = Welcome To Spuzzum WI3 75m

Welcome to Spuzzum area topo

Welcome to Spuzzum area topo

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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
I (Peter Watson) climbed Closet Secrets today Feb 26th, with Kevin Carriere (meeting off of Werners list). Route was in much stiffer shape then my last ascent. Thin ice at the bottom required a traverse in from the right. Ice was funky with a lense over much of the ice and the top layer was continually plating and needed much clearing. The top pitch is fun off the belay, but then it gets steep with more funky ice. WI4+ for sure. A small rock rack helped protect the climbing.


Responses

  1. killer shots of cs -thanks!


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