Posted by: westcoastice | February 22, 2011

February 22, 2011 – EDITED – (Thanks Don and Adam)

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
On Saturday, February 19th, we (Don Montrichard and co) were a group of four that drove up from Vancouver to The Rambles. Incredibly, no cars were parked there when we arrived around 9:30 (only one other party showed up at all). We chose to climb the lines at Rambles Right. The bottom WI2 tier was a little wet, but thick. Most of the upper routes are “in”, with fat ice, including some of the often unformed drools on the slabs near the bolted sections. Between the upper and lower tiers there is enough snow to stop most debris from the upper tiers making it down to the lower tier.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton
Birkenhead ValleyThe Plum (Light)
On Sunday, February 20th, we woke up early in Pemberton and drove up to Poole Creek Road. After a few routefinding issues, we managed to beat a trail to the ice through several feet of new, sugary snow and alder thickets (the route is in the drainage that is visible immediately north of the electrical tower, closest to the parking area). The lower WI3 section (particularly the left side) was thinner than in early January – it looked as if most of the ice that used to be there had melted in the warmer temperatures of the recent weeks, and it is only now starting to rebuild. The next ice section required pounding up 200 metres of deep snow. The middle WI4 section was in better shape – we climbed on the left side, but the right side also looked climbable, probably at WI4+. We ran out of enough time to continue on to the upper sections.

Kelowna – Christie Falls Area
NEW ROUTE
Rumble in the Bronx M10 (?) 40m
Open Project

Above Aaron Culver’s new WI4 (Let’s Get Ready to Rumble) is a mixed route that climbs the ice 20 meters and then heads straight through the roofs above. The second half of the route has 9 fixed draws over the 15 meters of rock, then pulls off the rock onto more ice for another 5 meters. An 80 meter rope will get you to the ground. There is an anchor below the last bit of ice that can be used to get off with 60 or 70 meter ropes (good luck). Route’s name is Rumble in the Bronx grade… I have no idea other then very hard, at least M10 but probably harder. It’s an open project, so get on it.

NEW ROUTE
The Phenom WI6 60m FA Adam Tutte FA Feb 6, 2011
Now let’s move on – the big falls (at Christie Falls) finally froze up 2 weeks ago. So after a bit of time to make sure they were going to stick around, I (Adam) climbed them on Saturday for the first accent. Amazing climb.60 meters long WI6. I called the route The Phenom. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top so if you can’t lead that grade it’s an amazing TR as well. Also the seep has gotten very wide so there is 2-3 lines up it now. So just because I could, I hauled a drill in and put a second anchor on it. Look for 2 bolts to come shortly on the back side of the pillar to make it easier to climb and get off of as well.

Pics from Kimberly Loudon

Starting up The Phenom

Starting up The Phenom

Full view of The Phenom

Full view of The Phenom

Adam halfway up The Phenom

Adam halfway up The Phenom


Responses

  1. Adam, this reads like you have redpointed Rumble in the Bronx, but on gravsports it reads like it is an open project. Which is true?

    • It got written up wrong it’s an open project that anyone can try . I have emailed adrian to let him know hope it gets fixed up soon also the wi4 wa first accented by Aaron culver not myself I was belaying him

  2. Adam – I edited this posted and the Jan 22 post. Let me know if I got them right.

    • Did you get the name of the climb for the wi 4 it’s called let’s get ready to rumble thanks other then the name missing it looks great


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