Posted by: westcoastice | January 14, 2011

January 14, 2011 (Thanks Tod and Elaine)

Highway 40 – Bridge River
On January 8th, Matt, Kyle and Ahad climbed Michelmoon Falls (ed. note: this climb is officially Closed to Access). After two hours straight uphill and accidently crossing private property that evidently is no longer open to climbing (Our 17yr old guide book was a little short on detail), we found this little gem. Unfortunately very wet.

Michelmoon Falls

Michelmoon Falls

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Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
On January 9th, Tod and Matt climbed Icy BC. Well traveled (and solid) ice on the first pitch; 2nd pitch column was in great shape – tools and screws went in great. Third pitch was very chandeliered and took some thought to work a safe line, we started on the right side, worked towards the center face and then took the the column just to the right of center proper (a long screw was very nice here). The climbing was well stepped on the chandaeliers prior to going vertical for the last 5-10 meters.

Perfect pitch 2 on Icy BC

Perfect pitch 2 on Icy BC

Icy BC pitch 3

Icy BC pitch 3

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Highway 99 South – Whistler/Pemberton
Three of us (Lorne Hoover, Cam Miller, Elaine Forsman) climbed Entropy on Tuesday the 11th. The ice was wet near the middle and very thin near the top. Climbable, but don’t expect much for pro in the last 15-20 metres, made for fun, but very run-out climbing. Found good ice for building anchors, we climbed it in 3 pitches.
Fig Plucker and Fig Pluckers Son looked similar… a combination of wet and thin. Probably climbable, but likely on the “sporty” side.
Mazola Party looked very thin-almost non-existent.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
On January 7th, Matt, Kyle and Ahad climbed The Rambles. Plenty of well travelled ice. See pics for conditions.

Pitch 1 at the Rambles

Pitch 1 at the Rambles

Climbing Rambles pitch 2

Climbing Rambles pitch 2

Seconding Rambles pitch 2

Seconding Rambles pitch 2

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On January 10th, Tod, Matt, Kyle and Ahad climbed The Tube. Well stepped and chandeliered, though you can still find good screw placements.

A well travelled Tube

A well travelled Tube


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