Posted by: westcoastice | January 11, 2011

January 11, 2011 (Congrats Lyle! Thanks Bruce and Wes)

Highway 97 – North Okanagon
NEW ROUTE
Mythologic WI6 140m Lyle Knight and Marc Piche Jan 10, 2011
Marc Piche and I (Lyle Knight) climbed the FA of Mythologic, WI6, 140m on Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan on January 10, 2011. The route is highly visible from Highway #97, forms annually and has intrigued local and travelling ice climbers for decades. However, due to the location (Okanagan Valley, west-facing) it can have a limited life span and get’s baked out pretty quick. A series of cold days/ evenings and cloudy days have kept it forming throughout December so I sussed out the approach and route on January 2. Garry Brace and I had a throw at it on January 4 and ran out of daylight at the top of p2.

Marc and I left Coldstream at 5am and were at the base by 9am, about 3 hours in due to the new snow (2.25 hours in packed conditions). Marc led p1, climbing a short WI3+ pillar to the base of the main flow. He ducked in behind the pillar and climbed a couple of short WI4 steps behind to a cave. I led the first crux pitch, an aerated vertical 25m pillar (WI5+/6) to a ledge, then a short step behind the p3 pillar to belay in a good cave. Marc led p3 (WI5/5+) out of the cave then traversed right to the upper half of the pillar 25m, followed by a short ramp (sending off dinner-table sized sheets of 1′ thick ice) to another spacious cave belay. P4 starts up another 20m of pillar (WI5) to a steep, ice-on-snow-on-ice ramp to the final stacked pillars into the trees (WI5+). Three rappels, one from the trees and two from threads put us back at the base by 4pm.

Burly-steep and sustained for the length, technical climbing, great ledges and stemming and a cool location. We encountered a variety of ice types and good screws required some excavation on most of the pillars. Like a skinny Nemesis in November conditions. The ground water creates a golden/ brown ice colour. Marc commented on the other-worldly feel to the location and I was leaning towards calling it The Phoenix due to the colour and short life span. And the fact there’s a 140m WI6 in the Okanagan (!), we landed on Mythologic. There’s a good trail packed in right now, the route is in shape and the threads are in place, go climb it!

Full view of Mythologic WI6

Full view of Mythologic WI6

Steep and yellow fun

Steep and yellow fun

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Approach: Park at Enderby Cliffs Provincial Park Trailhead five minutes east of Enderby, and follow the main trail to the first lookout (45 minutes). Hike another 300’ish metres on the summit trail to the second fence and head left (north) and approximately follow the edge of the bench through some unique, bouldery. About a half hour to a boulderfield where you can see the route. Pretty much bee-line to the route in about an hour, snowshoes are helpful right now but not necessary.

Highway 99 South – Squamish
In case anyone is wondering,  Squamish has no ice to speak of. Dry as a bone. Zip. Zilch. If  you absolutely insist on looking try A Scottish TaleMaden Falls is also pretty much a zero. Don’t mean to be a killjoy, just thought you might want to know before driving.

Highway 99 South – Whistler
Robert Rogoz and I (Wes Dyck) climbed The Plum on Sunday. We rapped the route with a 70m rope from an Abalakov we set from the top. Mostly fixed anchors from there down. It should be noted that the boot track up does not go to The Plum, but to the gully to climber’s right as described in previous report on The Plum. Take a left before entering the trees for most efficient approach. Track was set and easy between tiers with evidence of old avy debris. The pics should tell the tale on the quality of ice. Hopefully it lives through the warm spell we are going to get later this week.

The Plum Pitch 1

The Plum Pitch 1

Richard on WI4 pitch

Robert on WI4 pitch

Final pitch of The Plum

Final pitch of The Plum


Responses

  1. Awsome route I climbed it 2 days after the fa by Lyle did it in 3 pitches linked first 2 pitches in a long 65 meter push then did the same as mentioned. Awsome route about 3 hours to the base as it snowed a foot the night befor . Route was harder then any single wi5 I ever lead solid at a 6 I would say better get to it quick though as it’s warming up here and might not stay around long


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