Posted by: westcoastice | January 9, 2011

January 9, 2011 continued (Thanks Bruce, Peter and Jia)

Highway 99 South – Whistler/Pemberton
Myself (Peter Watson) and Cyrus got out on The Plum yesterday Jan 8th. Trail is broken to the upper pitch although we ran out of daylight at the base of the final 35m. With the rain Adrian encountered it created a terrible crust that was unsupportive and led to some shitty post holing. The trail we followed to get to the base of the climb was the wrong one, but was easily corrected by a 5min traverse from the Rocky/Bullwinkle gulley into The Plum on the left. The climbing itself was descent, but any low angle ice had a lot of digging to get confident sticks. Should be good to go with the trail that was broken. FYI avalanche debris was found in this gulley at the base of the second pitch. That confirmed what I had suspected for years that this line could be a pretty big trap in the right/wrong conditions. HEADS UP.
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Other lines based on Bruce’s roadside viewing.
Suicide Bluffs: Starting to look in typical “bold lead, fun toprope” condition.
Blue Moon on Rye: Not quite in, but looking promising for the near future.
Eagle and Mole: Looking much better and may be a go.
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Jia Condon climbed a very wet Psycho Pillar on Jan 5 with Chris Giesler and Jason Kruk. This was before the big rains, so not sure how it is now. Hope the pics say it all… mushrooms, icicles, cauliflower ice, the works.
Smashing icicles at the start of Psycho Pillar

Smashing icicles at the start of Psycho Pillar

Midpoint breather on Psycho Pillar

Midpoint breather on Psycho Pillar

Jia getting the killer stem on Psycho Pillar

Chris getting the killer stem on Psycho Pillar

Jia nearing the top of Psycho Pillar

Chris nearing the top of Psycho Pillar


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