Posted by: westcoastice | January 8, 2011

January 8, 2011 (my own report for a change)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Lee Purvis and I (Adrian Burke) drove up to Pemberton intending to climb the Plum. Torrential rain convinced us to press on up the Duffey in pursuit of sunlight. Finally found a glorious blue sky at Marble Canyon, where we swapped leads to the top of Icy BC. Of course, at the end of the day, a blizzard rolled in that chased us all the way back on the drive home to Vancouver.
Deeping Wall: Fat, but hammered out. It’s possible to draft up on previous pick placements with hardly a swing.
IcyBC: Pitch 1 is leaner than some years, with thin spots on the top half of the pitch. The ice on the right is much more plastic than in previous weeks, with only the occasional dinner plate. The left side (top-roped at the end of the day) is a dirt/ice snow cone that you’d be ill-advised to lead. Pitch 2 is in great condition, slightly easier then it’s usual WI4 state. Pitch 3 is very fat, cauliflowered and chandeliered on the main body of the pitch. We climbed the pillar to the right of Pitch 3 (Fender Bender?), then up the right side to the top of Icy BC. A spooky mix of mushroom ice and icicles. Long screws help for protection.

Deeping Wall

Deeping Wall

Lee leading Icy BC Pitch 1

Lee leading Icy BC Pitch 1

Full-view of Icy BC Pitch 1

Full-view of Icy BC Pitch 1

Adrian leading Icy BC Pitch 2

Adrian leading Icy BC Pitch 2

Icy BC Pitch 3

Icy BC Pitch 3

Lee leading Fender Bender

Lee leading Fender Bender to top of Icy BC

 

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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Shreddie: Non-existent.
Rambles: All three variants are in and looking good.
The Tube: In. Chandeliered and steep, so may be in WI4+ state.
Carl’s Berg: In but in tough WI5 condition. Numerous pillars and openings in the ice.
Synchronicity: Is in thin early season condition. The log to cross the river was not found, though an ice bridge (see pic) was available. See pics below from last weekend (Jan 2)

Crossing Cayoosh Creek

Ice bridge across Cayoosh Creek

Middle-upper pitches of Synchronicityq

Middle-upper pitches of Synchronicity

Last pitch of Synchronicity

Last pitch of Synchronicity


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