Posted by: westcoastice | January 3, 2011

January 3, 2011 (Thanks Drew, Tim and Lee)

Highway 5 – Coquihalla
We (Drew and co) went up to Box Canyon on Sunday; it’s very snowy and most routes are thin or just starting to reform. We beat a trail in as far as the Fungus Wall before deciding conditions were not great. Grim Reaper‘s top two pitches looked pretty good, but there was so much snow on the bottom it was hard to say how much ice was there under the snow.

Highway 1 – Fraser Valley
Drove up the Fraser Canyon after that and most everything was forming, but thin and wet with running water still visible.
Jackass will probably be climbable soonest.
Hells Gate routes (Hell O’ Kitty, Cerberus, etc.) looked pretty good too.
We ended up climbing Energizer and the first pitch of After the Gold Rush at Goldpan. Second pitch of ATGR was very thin and we decided not to climb it to preserve what ice was there. It’s very dry at Goldpan with no snow on the ground, but there is relatively a lot of ice on Energizer – fatter than other times I have climbed it.

Highway 99 South – Squamish
NEW ROUTE
Frozen Zombie M8 30m 5 Bolts FFA Matt Maddaloni and Tim Emmett 24 November 2010
Matt Maddaloni and I (Tim Emmett) climbed the 1st Ascent of Frozen Zombie M8 30m in Squamish. 24th November 2010. Excellent bouldery mixed climbing through roofs to a hanging dagger, 30yards to the right of Zombie Roof.

I went back there yesterday (Jan 2) to do some training on it. The ice wasn’t thick enough to place screws on the top slab, but it was climbable. This morning it may well be thicker as it was -5 last night, and perhaps tomorrow morning too.

Leading up Frozen Zombie

Tim leading Frozen Zombie

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Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Icy BC is brittle and not fat; (very) hard compared to normal. Ice is brittle, sending off big dinner plates.
Deeping Wall is in and climbable; same conditions with hard and brittle ice. Hard leads and a bit scary with huge dinner plates. But fun top roping.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Pat King and I (Lee Purvis) climbed Synchronicity yesterday (Jan 2). It was thin compared to the previous times I’ve climbed it. Couldn’t find the log to cross the creek, so used ice dam and rocks; a bit sketchy. Almost no ice in approach gully. The climbing starts at the WI 3 step. No evidence of anyone else having climbed the route. Overall, there was much less ice than previous years. Strangely, the climb was wet in spots and brittle in others, with big dinner plates shearing off in places. The ice was sun-baked up high which was difficult to climb; much digging for screws. Chandeliered in places that were shaded from the sun; also challenging to get pro. Overall, great climbing, but not in easy condition.


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