Posted by: westcoastice | December 21, 2010

December 21, 2010 (Thanks Wes and Bruce)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Jason Cullum and I (Wes Dyck) climbed Oregon Jack and Marble Canyon on the weekend. Found cold and dry conditions  -11 C both days. Oregon Jack is formed nicely with a wider easier top than I am used to. We used the approach as stated in the guide book up beside the fence and then through the Rancher’s gate and then down the flagged trail down to the climb. (Flagging is faded)

Climbed first 2 pitches of Icy BC. The third pitch was chandeliered and had a large hole in the middle. Instead we toproped at the bottom tier and then led the Deeping Wall WI 5 which seemed a bit easier than usual.

Oregon Jack

Rappelling Oregon Jack

Icy BC Pitch 2

Icy BC Pitch 2

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Icy BC Pitch 3

Icy BC Pitch 3

Deeping Wall

Deeping Wall

 

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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
[Bruce Kay] Four of us sampled the early season conditions in Lillooet with some good and some bad. The bad was a fair bit of thin, honeycombed, chandeliered or nonexistant ice, one 40 foot head first near grounder and Lillooet breakfasts.  The good was a few good strips of ice, no injuries and a good but cheap hotel room (Mile 0 is best deal, fifty bucks for 2 beds)

Rambles, right: Good conditions with ice all the way on Eagle Ears.
Closet Secrets: Backed off of thin brittle first pitch. Looks good, but thin with uncertain rock and ice pro (there’s a couple of bolts said to be up there but we couldn’t spot them).  The ice may build up given some time.
Zero ice on Shreddie.
Carl’sBerg: One semi dry and climbable line up the middle, but difficult to get good screws with hollow honeycombs.  We lowered off and hiked around to top rope.
The only other routes we saw that looked promising on the Duffey were Synchronicity and Three Ring Circus.
Honeyman Falls looked horrible.
Watersports (Seton Lake) top pitches looked poor through binoc’s.
We cancelled our plan to check out the Bridge River based on the low odds.
All in all its worth a weekend visit, but don’t expect the full banquet. On the plus side temps are good (-3 to -8) and the junky ice should improve over time.

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