Posted by: westcoastice | December 3, 2010

December 3, 2010 (Thanks Garry and Conny-via Paul and Werner)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Icy BC
P1 – lean but climable on both right and left sides; very wet.
P2 – tube is still thin, chandeliered, and very wet; pro would be challenging.
P3 – heavily chandeliered and very wet; pro would be challenging.

Top Tier Climbs
Air Care and Fender Bender are in the process of forming, but will require a few more week.
Body Shop has formed but is very lean.

Bottom Tier Climbs
Deeping Wall and No Deductible are forming nicely and should be ready to go in a couple of weeks (no TR’ing please, give them a chance to build up).
Waite for Spring is, well, waiting.
The Dihedral and Dale’s Route are pretty well free of ice.

The Mixed Climbs
With the exception of Comfortably Numb, none of the mixed climbs have any ice on them and are not really leadable, but could be TR’d. Comfortably Numb has a small amount of ice at the bottom and a few smears at the top. It is probably leadable but would probably be M7++.

Highway 99 South – Whistler to Duffey Lake Road

On a drive over from Whistler to Lillooet yesterday I (Conny) noticed the following from the car window:
At 10am it was -1 to -3 degrees over the pass and around all the ice climbs

Entropy looks to be in good shape, but has 30-50cm of wet snow on it.
Phsyco Pillar looks sporting. It looked climbable, but the pillar hasn’t properly formed yet and it might not be on the ground yet. I would still go in there to climb, but would almost certainly toprope the thing.
Blue Moon on Rye fell down leaving a wet chimney with a few shards of ice.
Boxing Day is in and quite fat, but looked like it had been touched by the sun.
Shreddie is not there.
Most of The Rambles are there and in good shape.
Carl’s Berg is in and large for this time of the year, but as always looks like it would be hard to protect.
The Tube was a wide curtain that was 3 meters from touching down.
Loose Lady approach pitches are there, but I couldn’t see the top.
Syncronicity is fat at the top but desperate at the bottom. The first pitch or two has little to no ice. Bring rock pro. The top looks great. Nothing else is formed on that wall
Counting Chickens was was there and as fat as it got last winter.

We climbed at Roach Motel last Sunday (there has been warmer temps and rain since), it is in but skinny. Bring some rock pro. Although harder, it is safer to lead up the bolted thing just to the left of it, 5 bolts are exposed before the upper ice which took good screws.  The corner to the left has ice too right now and makes a fun grade 3. There were also reports at that time that Cal Cheak ice was in, the rain could have had its way with it though.


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