Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
MONDAY, JAN 12 – HIGHWAY 40 WAS CLOSED STARTING AT YALAKOM RIVER CONFLUENCE, DUE TO AVVY HAZARD. NOT CLEAR WHEN IT WILL OPEN AGAIN.
Sunday – Honeyman Falls – climbed the right side. Left side was largely fallen apart, right side was pouring large quantities of water. Not recommended until colder temps come back.
Good old reliable Cherry Ice was in.
Jason and I (Wes Dyck) hiked up to Xwisten Steps on Sunday 9th morning and found three big holes in the first step. Hike was easy and found the previous boot track from the pullout at a very twisty part of the road. Looked like an excellent climb when formed.
Sunday – BJ Cassell and company drove up to just past the dam. It didn’t look like much was touching down throughout the canyon. Couldn’t see Jade Falls; the fog was too dense.
Didn’t see anything in the Plan B area except that one on private property (Michelmon Falls), which wasn’t touching down yet.
That said, Old Dogs, New Picks was in – chandeliers and icicles.
Salmon Stakes looked in, but we couldn’t find a way to cross the river (higher than usual water due to warm temps, precip, snow melt).
Nite N’ Gale looked awesome, but the avy danger looked too substantial.
Virgin looked all there, but not sure that we could see the bottom of it.
The couple of climbs past the dam were nothing more than some smears.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Saturday – probably much like previous reports last week. Top pitch of Icy BC is all there, but very chandeliered -like all the way through (at least for the first 30 or so meters). Perhaps climbable (I gave it a shot and backed down), but not easily protectable.
Only the right side, Deeping Wall was in – as opposed to the left-side routes (nothing touching down yet).
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Monday – Adrian (West Coast Ice webmaster) and Lee climbed Carl’s Berg. The ice was dripping and chandeliered, but climbable. Long screws for protection are very helpful. Wish we had a snorkel.
The warm temps are melting the Duffey. It was raining (e.g. not snowing) when we got there at 9am.
The Tube is in, chandeliered.
Synchronicity is still there, but may be suffering from sun-rot. Hard to tell from the road.