Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Hayley Wilson and I (Jeremy Thom) climbed at Marble Canyon on Jan. 9. Icy BC‘s lower pitch was fat, but soaking and dripping/running. We didn’t go above the first tier, but others climbing it told us the second pitch was in good stiff WI4 (but wet) shape, and that the third pitch was a horror show of bad, chandeliered and aerated ice with little to no good pro.
Deeping Wall was in WI5 form, heavily chandeliered, and very wet – but there was good ice underneath with a lot of clearing.
The Dihdedral is bare and the mixed routes to its right were mostly scratchy; and were bolt protected the whole way up.
Anyway, considering how wet it was and with the weather supposed to be so warm for the next week, there might not be much ice at all left there by next weekend.
Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon
On the way up, we noted everything from Chilliwack to Hope to be nearly ice-less. Nothing looked remotely in from the highway. In the Fraser Canyon, there was a fair amount of ice, but all thin, much rotted and much delaminated. Nothing looked climbable except maybe Spences Bridge Outflow (on the right side) and maybe The Crucible if you had a wet suit and a snorkel.
Highway 5 – Coquihalla
Box Canyon Area: Lots of ice but horribly wet. Temperature started at +2 and went up to +9 through the day.
Jesse and Drew climed Labyrinth. Marc-Andre and Tamara climbed the first two pitches of Happy Harvester. Everyone got at least damp and some got soaked.
Big crack developing along the top of Festering Wall.
The Curtain (Fear-o-Fungi, Comfortably Numb, etc) is not long for the world at this rate.
The warm is really hammering the other routes around Hope. Very little climbable is left at low elevation, although it was all obviously in 3-4 days ago.