Posted by: westcoastice | January 3, 2010

January 3, 2010

Highway 40 – Bridge River

Xwisten Step 1

Xwisten Step 1

Xwisten Step 2

Lee topping out lead of Step 2

Xwisten Step 3

Lee leading Xwisten Step 3

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Lee Purvis and I (Adrian Burke, your trusty webhost) climbed Xwisten Steps 1, 2 and 3 on Staturday, Jan 2. Even with snowfall, we could follow Drew and co.’s vague footprints up the 1000+ft approach to the base. Very helpful. Step 1 was in WI3 condition with some drips and hollow bits, aerated at the top. The rambling WI2 rises between Step 1 and Step 2 were fun, but quickly gave way to open water and hiking up the rocky streambed. The distance between Step 1 and 2 seemed longer than implied in the guide. Would have been more fun with more ice. Step 2 was in drippy WI4 condition, an easier lead than the sun-rotted WI4+ Drew found on Dec 30. There were 2 or 3 no-hands rest points on the way up. A little tougher than Icy BC‘s Pitch 1 overall. Step 3 was a tougher lead than Step 2, going at WI4/4+, very similar in feel and look to Icy BC‘s Pitch 2. We descended the route, with 5 raps and much downclimbing. 4 raps were single-rope (30m rope) raps off trees, with a 2-rope 35m rap off an abalakov down Step 1. Rumour has it there is a walk-around, but a rap was easier in the dark. An awesome day all around, with more “alpine adventure feel” than a lot of BC routes.

If anyone is up on Xwisten Steps in the next week, I lost one of my collapsible hiking poles (off the back of my pack) up on the route. Probably when downclimbing in the dark. Email me at westcoasticereports@gmail.com if you find it.
Thanks in advance!!

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Carl's Berg

Carl's Berg

Carl’s Berg is in, but not as fat as many years. The flow is only half the width I have seen some years.
The Tube is in, thinner than usual. A cool pencil column on the left might be a fun TR.
Loose Lady looks in from the road (top pitch anyways).
Synchronicity is in, with some scree/rock scrambling in the approach pitch.

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Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon
Kryptonite Column and the surrounding climbs looked in from the road.
Jackass is in.


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