Posted by: westcoastice | December 30, 2009

December 31, 2009 updated (Thanks Cyrus, Drew and Marc-Andre)

Highway 1 – Hope

Rapping Medusa

Marc-Andre rapping Medusa

Mike Warn and I (Marc-Andre LeClerc) climbed Medusa today (Dec 30). I led the route it in two 65 meter pitches from bottom to top, both pitches were sustained and cool, both went at around WI4-. P1 climbed up and left into a cave like feature way up high, then through the cool ice cave to belay. P2 exited the cave to the right, then straight up more steep ice to easier stuff above. It was very wet before entering the cave and when exiting the cave. The route was very sustained 80 degree ice with a couple ‘interesting’ sections of ice. We rapped from V-Threads.

Most reports below from Drew…

Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon
Drove further down to south of Lytton.
Kanaka Kolumn is in and fatter than on the FA. Straightforwards WI3 right now, a bit wet. Good climbing with zero approach.
Jackass is iced. but eggshell thin. Should be good to go with a couple more days of cold.
Tijuana Donkey Show is also in, but the crux pillar is somewhat skinny.
At the end of the day, Hwy 1: Superheroes area looked to be in, but thin; in snowstorm.
Hells Gate climbs also looked in from the road in fading light.

Highway 12 – Texas Creek Area
Drove down Highway 12 to Merry Widow. Hiked in. Merry Widow is not in (big hole in middle gushing water).

Highway 40 – Bridge River
(Dec 30) Off to the town of Fountain to look for White Van. Couldn’t find it.
Fountain of Youth is in, but looked hard. the closed/no access Fountain Blue is not touching down on crux pillar.

Drove up West Pavilion Forest Service Road to French Foreign Lesion and Draft Dodger in the afternoon.
French Foreign Lesion is thin.
Draft Dodger is in, but sun-rotted/scary looking.

(Dec 28) Climbed Xwisten Steps 1 and 2. Step 1 was fully iced, but hollow near the top; delicate climbing. Long rambling gully in between was great, except near the Suncatcher junction, where there was some open water. Step 2 was in, but very sun rotted. Set a TR. Good sticks, but very difficult to find pro, would probably be 4+ for a lead. Didn’t venture up to step 3. Unclimbed Step 4 looked in from the road.
Suncatcher looked in from the road.

(Dec 27) Up the Bridge, climbed Hell Creek Falls via the WI3 centre-right side. Approach has some open water, but can be bypassed on the rocks.
Oh Hell, What the Hell, and Hell Freezes Over are in, but thin at the top.
Other Bridge stuff is mostly fat, except for House of Cards, Old Dogs, New Picks and Silk Degrees which are thin & not climbable,
Also not in is Boulder Creek Falls which has a huge open hole.
Splashdown Park unclimbed waterfall has a lot of ice (!), but also a big hole in the middle.
Upper pillar of Capricorn might not be touching down.
Like a Rocket is in.
Shriek of Sheep, Night N’ Gale, Drake and Blackbird all looked quite good.
Jade Falls big and fat.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
(Dec 29) Up the Duffey and up Downton Creek Forest Service Road to Sergeant Pepper. Drove to first bridge, snowshoed/hiked to fourth bridge following large wolf tracks. Sergeant Pepper is blue, but the first pillar on the WI4 pitch is totally chandeliered. Tried it, but couldn’t find any solid screw placements; bailed. WI5 or bold WI4 leaders wouldn’t have a problem with it.

Hiking out, saw a gully line just above the 2nd bridge on the North side of the canyon. Climbed it: two short steps of steep with a rambly bit between, WI3 overall, 45m in total. Found a sling at the top so not an FA. Yellow Submarine, maybe?
The Tube is in, but vertical and chandelier-like at the bottom.  Nice ice up top.
Duffey’s Delight is thin, but all there.
Wader Land area looks good.
Neither Wet Lady (nor the approach pitch, Solarium) are in.
As mentioned in previous posts, the lower and middle pitches of Rambles Center are in, but thin. The upper tier is pretty much non-existent.
Deep Throat looks good and there is a potential log crossing about 250m downstream.
Synchronicity is in.
Twilight Tiers is there, but thin.
Three Ring Circus is not touching down.
Carl’s Berg is in, but not fat, looks stiff right now.
Other Carl’s Berg area stuff like Cowabunga Dude and the Bullock/Amelunxen are not in.

Highway 99 South – Whistler and Pemberton
(Dec 26) Climbed at Moaning Tree Wall in Cal-Cheak. Only The Couch was leadable (thick enough for screws), but everything was TR’able. We climbed The Couch and Vegetable Alley.

Drove up to D’arcy to check conditions. Everything pretty much in (Rusty, Deception, Fourskin, Roadside Attraction, Candlewax, Hollow Quest 4 Glory, Whisper Falls etc.).
White Blotter looked amazing.
PC Valentine looked thin.
Saw some ice where Pearly Gates I-V are supposed to be, so that might be in too.


  1. I guess I got a few Moaning Tree routes confused. What we actually climbed on the 26th was Get Off The Couch and then Take Me To The Cleaners.


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