Highway 1 – Lytton-Thompson
Ice is in nice in Goldpan.
After The Gold Rush WI3 pitch is mint.
Energizer starts thin, but fattens up nicely further up.
Likewise Happy Boy is in and fatter in upper pitches – leading to the Curtain, which is almost touching down on left side.
High volume of water flowing on The Crucible but would be climbable for someone more badass than us.
Spences Bridge Overflow is in with an exciting start and finish.
Private Idaho is wet and in 3+ shape with phat sticks.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Climbed in Marble Canyon today (29th). Warming up considerably. Top-roped the Deeping Wall. Another party was attempting to lead Icy BC, but backed off. (Very aerated, especially the last 30 feet of Pitch 1)
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Climbed Rambles Center (Dec. 26th) – very brittle ice. Approx. 3 pitches are in. Upper pitch + mixed stuff not in yet.
Carl’s Berg looked to be in, as well as other routes I didn’t take time to identify.
Hit The Tube for the second half. The Tube is a real sandbag right now and climbing very identical to Deeping Wall (see pics below in Dec 28 post) as far as difficulty, quality, and thickness. It’s sporting some very aerated ice with poor protection for the first half. It climbed like a 5- on lead with do not fall scenarios. After running a dozen laps on every line it had to offer, we probably beat it in to 4+ shape. Future ascentionists should bring a cool and patient lead head for finding gear… oh, and don’t forget the screamers.
Highway 99 South – Whistler & Pemberton
Dec. 27 – Hayley Wilson and I (Jeremy Thom) TR’d a bunch of stuff at Cal Cheak. Very thin, not enough ice for screws, but enough for climbing. If you don’t mind sharpening your picks a lot.
Dec. 28 – Chili Thom, Frank Whittaker, Sean Draper and I (Jeremy) pissed around on the lower tier of The Plum. The ice was brittle, badly aerated (screws even in the good looking ice struck mostly air), covered in snow, and plagued by onion skin and rotten ice underneath (but over the brittle aerated stuff). There was water running under most of it, but it was pretty thick. Frank scrambled/climbed up snow, rock and shrubs to a tree about 2/3 up on the right, and then I TR’d up to there and then lead across to the main tree anchor at the top. Not a terribly pleasant outing when so much else seems in. We didn’t go up to the second tier, so have nothing to report about it. The surface wasn’t melting at all during the day, so it’ll probably take some time and warmer weather before it fills in more solidly.