Posted by: westcoastice | December 28, 2009

December 28, 2009 (Thanks Bruce, Steve, Darin, Alex and Donnie)

Highway 12 – Lillooet Area
Climbed Texas Two-Step, which had about 50m of fun ice.
Spray Creek Falls was a bit wet and thin, but solid on the right.

Highway 40 – Lillooet Area & Bridge River
Honeyman Falls is in and reported to be in good condition.
Cheery Ice is in.

Night ‘N Gale looked amazing.
Climbed Cherry Falls, which was in decent shape.
Hell Creek is not well frozen yet.  We bailed rather than risk getting wet.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Climbed Lower half of Oregon Jack on the 24th. Climbed up to an alcove on left several meters below the tree. Above it looked difficult to protect due to chandelier, cauliflowers and ice dildos, so we didn’t do the upper half.

Icy BC Pitch 1

Pat and Rich on Icy BC Pitch 1

Icy BC Pitch 1

Icy BC Pitch 2

Icy BC Pitches 2 & 3

Icy BC Pitches 2 & 3

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Icy BC is in. First pitch in WI4- conditions on the right, WI4+ and wet on the left. Second pitch is fat, but dripping wet. Guaranteed shower. Third pitch is fat (see pics).
The other tier 3 climbs are in and fat, including an amazing looking pencil on the far left (see picture) – maybe WI6?

Deeping Wall

Lee Purvis on Deeping Wall

Deeping Wall is in, but thin, Protection would be challenging. Cauliflower and chandelier ice.
The Dihedral is dry, no ice.
Other routes to the left (Dale’s, etc) are almost completely dry, no ice.

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Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Walked up to the base of The Tube – steep for us in current thin conditions.
Today (Sunday), we did The Small Creep and Spray Creek FallsThe Creep was in great shape.
Alex and co. climbed Synchronicity Saturday. Hiked in all the way from the bridge. It was arduous;crampons on the whole way. Ice was good on the first pitch, thin on the second pitch, and fine on the left on the third pitch (75m), after a thin start. The final pitch was fat and plastic in the sun; currently soft WI4. On way out, we crossed an ice dam instead and it was fine. Our friends Dan and Jeremy were also on route, but started later and only go to the top of their third pitch before retreating due to time.
Rambles Left: Lower section, left side is in. Initial section thin, so bring stubbies. Fun mixed moves on the right side. Lower section, right side not in.
Rambles Center: First two pitches in. Upper pitch would likely go with some rock gear.
Rambles Right: Lower pitch is not in.
The Column is in.
P-S Diherdral is in.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton/Whistler
(Bruce) scoped a few routes while driving from Whistler to Cerise Creek.
Entropy: Looked in.
On Suicide Bluffs, Psycho Pillar was in. Was unable to see other stuff, but likely it’s in.
Blue Moon on Rye: Very anemic. Only dribs and drabs of ice, even on pitch one.
Eagle and Mole: Looks in, including the top pillar.
Medicine Man: Looks really fat. Might be worth a hike, but warm air aloft and sun may be a bad mix right now. When it cools down, jump on it.
Dream Catcher: Looks in.
Paid or Laid: Couldn’t tell, but probably in.

All observations from road with no binocs, so no guarantees. But like I said, thats how they look.

Note on Avalanche conditions: Lots of surface hoar in drainages, so heads up with next storm cycle starting around New Year’s.

Hiwhway 3 – Summalo Bluffs
Lots of ice at Sumallo, though some routes looked a bit thin.
Buszowski-Kippan was in excellent condition on 12/27 – fat and fun. Rapped after WI4 pitch. Upper flows looked great as well.
Landmark Gully was not in. Upper curtain not touched down; bottom very thin. Definitely looked like the curtain was trying to touch down though!
Crunchy Frog looking “in”. Maaayyybbeee a bit thin, but definitely climbable
Anthrax Ripple looked amazing.
The Mess gullies all looked stellar with endless pitches of rambling ice.


Responses

  1. Synchronicity:
    There now is a log just north of the Synchro gully, we saw it while doing the standard approach. It is not as thick as some in the past but very solid, sits low. close to the water.
    On the drive home (12/27) saw a huge, incredible amount of climbable ice, WI3-6 around Hope on the other (N) side of the river from the Hwy. Some darn good flows on W side of Fraser River around Boston Bar, not sure if accessible.


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