Posted by: westcoastice | December 14, 2009

December 14, 2009 (Thanks Marc-Andre and Jeremy)

Highway – Fraser Canyon

The Chuck Norris Roundhouse Smash

The Chuck Norris Roundhouse Smash (red line)

NEW ROUTE (described in detail in the Dec 13 post)
The Chuck Norris Roundhouse Smash – click on the pic to see a larger format picture from Marc-Andre of his new route, The Chuck Norris Roundhouse Smash. Red line shows the mixed path right of Where is Ultrawoman

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Highway 1 – Hope
Other New Route potential…
I (Marc-Andrew) went to the Bridal Falls area today. I climbed all the rambly ice into the ampitheatre below White Wedding, but WW was falling apart. So I went to check out the big (unclimbed?) pillar on the right side of the ampitheatre. I soloed 40 meters of lovely WI3+ to the base of the pillar. The pillar itself has 20 meters of vertical chandelier and cauliflower ice topped by an overhang. Needless to say I didn’t want to solo that, so I rapped and downclimbed. But it could be climbed by a good climber if it survives the warm spell.

I headed over to Never a Bride where I met Grant and Peter from North Van. It seems (from their tracks) that they climbed the first pitch to just below the upper curtains. I soloed the climb in it’s entirety and took the bottom curtain on straight up the center, rather than avoiding it to the sides. Climbing the curtain is technical, but not very pumpy WI4. The rest of the first pitch is in amazing WI3 conditions! The pitch up the upper curtains involved really delicate hooking on cauliflower ice between water holes, be careful not to collapse the formation! The top out was thin too, I’m not sure if it will survive the next couple days, but the bottom should be okay.

Bridal Falls is running water
Decent Divorce has gaping holes.
The 3 pitch WI3+ between Bridal Falls and White Wedding looks thin and/or wet.

Highway 3 – Manning Park
Frank Whittaker and I (Jeremy Thom) climbed the Buszowski-Kippan yesterday (Dec 13), stopping just before the WI2 at the top. I wouldn’t call it fat, but protection was more than adequate. I did bottom out several 19 and 22 cm screws. A bit of everything – slush, onion skin, chandelier, cauliflower, running water, but plenty of good ice. The approach was miserable, but with the amount of snow that fell on us and was falling as we left, it should be infinitely better already. Enjoy the bushwhack.

We looked at Landmark Gulley from the road. From there, it seemed to be in similar shape to the Buszowski-Kippan. The upper curtain was not touching down.


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