Posted by: westcoastice | December 13, 2009

December 13, 2009 (Thanks, Andre, Drew and Marc-Andre)

Highway 99 South – Squamish
Bubba and I (Andre Ike) climbed A Scottish Tale today and found it to be in thin conditions at WI4 5.9. The guide book gives it 300m, but we climbed seven 60m pitches, so more like 420m. It took 10 hours for the climb and descent. Bring lots of stubbies, pins and a full set of cams to 3 inches. The last 2 pitches were fun fat yellow ice. A great climb!

Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon
Matt Kidd and I (Marc-Andre Leclerc) climbed Where Is Ultrawoman at the Superheroes Cirque up the Fraser Canyon. The crux pillar was too insubstantial and aerated to support much so we FA’d a mixed variation to the right.

Chuck Norris Roundhouse Smash

Matt following Chuck Norris...

NEW ROUTE
The Chuck Norris Roundhouse Smash (variation) 40m M6 R. Matt Kidd & Marc-Andre Leclerc Dec 13/2009

Climb thin ice to the right of the pillar to a ledge. Then cut back left up a thin runnel that slowly becomes a mixed chimney, leading to an alcove below a chockstone/roof system. Make some tricky, strenuous moves around the overhanging chockstone (watch for some loose rocks), then make a short traverse left to a good belay tree. Continue above as for Ultrawoman. Bring a couple pins and maybe a couple small/medium stoppers and TCU’s.

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The rest of Ultrawoman was in great shape, other than the frozen log climbing just above where our mixed variation and the main line join again. Lots of one-swing sticks and so on.

The Riddler

Matt on the 'very wet' Riddler

Sailor Bar Gulley is there, but pretty thin in places. Noobs should bring a file!
Kryptonite Direct is touching down, but beware of warm temps and falling ice.
The Riddler is in, but very wet. We bailed.
Mr. Freeze is there, but looks like total crap to climb. Good luck!

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NEW ROUTE(S)
Welcome To Spuzzum (Come Again Soon) 70-75m WI3 to 3+. Drew Brayshaw & Graham Rowbotham Dec 12/2009 (Marc-Andre Leclerc & Steven Harng Dec 12/2009)

Come Again Soon

Steve and Marc-Andre at first belay of Come Again Soon

Cross Alexandra Bridge on Hwy 1 20km north of Yale, then turn right onto Anderson River Road (access to Steinbok, Ibex etc). Drive approximately 5 km until above a small lake. A gated spur road leads off west to the lake with lots of private property signs. Park near here, not blocking the gate. The climb is 50-100m left of the path, due upslope, and can be glimpsed through the trees. Don’t get distracted by little seeps immediately above the parking – these aren’t the climbs you are looking for. 15-20min bushwack approach.

The climb is a broad curtain with many available lines in the 3 to 3+ range. Graham Rowbotham & Drew Brayshaw climbed Welcome To Spuzzum WI3 75m, while Marc-Andre Leclerc and Steven Harng climbed Come Again Soon 70m WI3 to the left.

Downclimb from the top tree belay to a massive slung Douglas Fir then make one 60m rappel back to the base.

Highway 1 – Hope

NEW ROUTE
Janice Ales 200m WI3. Drew Brayshaw & Graham Rowbotham Dec 11/2009.

Janice Ales

Graham on first pitch of Janice Ales

500m east of Easy Intro along Highway 1 is a north-facing red cliff with a prominent drip icicle that never touches down. At the right end of the same cliff is this four-pitch route, which is prominently seen from Highway 7 near Seabird Island.

Park below the route in a gravel pullout that leads down to the railway tracks. From the highway, bushwack straight uphill to the climb or follow a recent landslide track below the hanging dagger to the base of the cliff then traverse right. (20-30m min up from highway).

Four pitches, WI2 60m, WI2 60m to ledge, then 60m WI3 to ledge and final pitch 25m WI2+ to forest above route.

Rappel off trees to climbers right, 30m ,then 60m, then 55m, then downclimb scree back to base of route. On the last of these raps we found an old sling around a tree, but nothing higher up.


Responses

  1. Bubba and I climbed a Scottish Tale today and found it to be in thin conditions at WI4 5.9.
    The guide book gives it 300m but we climbed 7 60m pitches so more like 420m and it took 10 hours for the climb and descent.
    Bring lots of stubbies, pins and a full set of cams to 3 inches.
    The last 2 pitches were fun fat yellow ice.
    A great climb!

  2. Thanks Andre! (added it to the general post)


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