Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
On Dec 9, we climbed first pitch of Icy BC. First pillar somewhat thin, but climbable. Second pitch looked in, but very wet.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Up on Carl’s Berg today. Climable, stout WI5 with pretty poor protection. Lot’s of aerated ice, etc.
Highway 99 South – Squamish
Climbed Mt Harvey North Ramp this morning Dec 10. Route had at least 75m of Grade 2 ice on it all the rest of it was hard snow. Great shape – get it while the weather lasts.
Highway 1 – Hope
Bridal Falls area:
Never a Bride and White Weddng could possibly be climbed, but are quite thin. Other routes have holes.
Powerhouse Falls has large hole on second pitch.
Piccadilly Circus looks thin and wet.
The lower WI2 on Easy Intro is all there; crux pitches has large open hole.
The Diviner is in and fat, ditto its unclimbed neighbour (pic to the left)
Hunter Creek area:
Medusa is in.
Jet Lag looked doable but thin.
Other routes in this area (Pearly Whites, The Cure, Jaundice, etc.) looked very thin and generally not in yet.
Actual visible ice on Jah Loveth the Righteous. Not an everyday occurrence.
JLTL has ice too.
Mousetrap is fully iced (see pic), but close inspection reveals it is wet, hollow and blobby. Possibly quite hard to protect.
The unclimbed pillar high above Mousetrap is HUGE! and yellow.
The Sheet looked good (photo), Canton Palace to the right is about 70% there.
Skagit Valley area:
Cruel Pools and Big Cedar are hollow and wet. Might not support body weight yet or will be wet if they do (bring extra dry boots and Goretex). See pic of Big Cedar Falls
Highway 7 – Fraser Canyon
Tradewinds is not there.
Tailwind upper part is in. Lower part is very thin, not really in. Might be feasible using the right-hand start.
Seabird Falls is sunny and totally not there.