Landmark Gully, Crunchy Frog and unclimbed ice above the Buszowski-Kippan (Sat Dec 5): Looks like it should be good to go by midweek.
Images of the Sumallo Bluffs (climbs in order mentioned above):
Also, on Vancouver’s North Shore, Royal Flush is not in, but the Crown Couloir has excellent rock-hard snow and a 20-30m step of WI2. Alpine travel and climbing conditions are ideal right now on the Shore. Squamish and Manning areas have breakable crust, so not so good for alpine approaches on foot.
Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon
I can say that definitively, as Frank Whittaker and I (Jeremy Thom) spent about 14 hours Saturday driving all over Hell’s half acre looking for some. Lots of ice. Unfortunately, all of it looks VERY thin and not well bonded to the rock (water running underneath everything at Cirque of the Superheroes (e.g., at 7:30 a.m. Jackass is still a waterfall, as is Spence’s Bridge outflow, etc. etc. etc.).
Highway 40 – Bridge River
Pretty much everything is starting to form up, but it’s all still too thin and almost nothing has touched down. We went to the dam just past Scream of Sheep. The only thing we found all day that looked plausible is Old Dogs, New Picks. It’s all there and would be climbable, but so thin that pro would consist of one stubby in a bit of cauliflower about 1/2 way up, and to top out (as opposed to, say, rapping off a 10 cm v-thread in a small cauliflower) would require climbing a short pillar of about 1 foot in diameter and just barely touched down to the rest of the climb. Plus, I’d probably have knocked half the climb down by bashing up it, even if I had the balls.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Deeping Wall is 80% bare. A few drips, drools and icicles are starting down.
The Dihedral is dry.
Icy BC is probably climbable by someone pretty bold (probably pro in the lower 2/3 of the first tier, but not much towards the top) and with excellent rain gear. We should have stopped there and dry tooled for the day, but….
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
We drove from Lillooet as far as Synchronicity, just to take a look. It’s starting to form, but has a long way to go.
Serendipity is bare.
Small Creep has a little bit, but is mostly bare.
I’m not sure if we were supposed to be able to see anything from the road, but we couldn’t see anything from the road.